Wednesday, June 13, 2012


jaw-jaw turnbuckles and eyes or single-jaw turnbuckles and studs?

1/4" wire 1/2" pin hayn: $46.35
jaw-jaw 1/2" turnbuckle:   $77.56 
increased flexibility (so?)
more stuff to break/fall out

 1/4" wire 1/2" thread hayn stud: $38.78
single-jhaw 1/2" turnbuckle:  $56.00 
---------------------- $94
less flexibilty (so?)
less stuff to break
less stuff to catch other stuff
$30 cheaper (x4 + >30 x 2 capshrouds+>>30xbackstay==ca. $200)


Furler Guts

taking the sail feeder off didn't do anything - just crusty red loctite, and nothing moves. I suppose that's good....

Extrusion pulled up as far as it will go. It hits the masthead junk here. The big round doohickey is the internal turnbuckle, I think, and the long skinny jobber that's normally inside the extrusion looks to be an extra long swage fitting on the end of the wire. I hope. Maybe.

View of whole system with extrusion up as far as it will go

Shroud-->mast terminations

zoom and squint

P1283637 P1283644 P1283645 P1283647 P1283658 P1283659 P1283660 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
5/16 cable @ 6'
UpperTerminal - 5/8" eye -
LowerTerminal - 1/2" fork -
Turnbuckle - 5/8 toggles -
SpecialConcerns: The pin at the waterline seems small

FurlerModel: Harken Series 1-193
5/16 cable @ 38'6" (order 40)
UpperTerminal - 1/2 eye -
LowerTerminal -
Turnbuckle - none
- 2" from top pin to furler-foil
- not sure what is under the drum on the bottom

5/16 cable @ 39'6" (order 41)
UpperTerminal - 1/2" eye -
LowerTerminal - 5/8 eye -
Turnbuckle - 5/8 toggles - 

Upper Shrouds
9/32 cable @ 35' (order 36x2=72)
UpperTerminal - T-ball - (x2)
LowerTerminal - 1/2" eye - (x2)
Turnbuckle - 1/2" toggles - (x2)

1/4" cable @ 19' (order 20x4=80)
UpperTerminal - T-Ball - (x4)
LowerTerminal - 1/2" eye - (x4)
Turnbuckle - 1/2" toggle - (x4)

Thursday, March 22, 2012


Jabsco Par-Max 4.0 pump under head sink, teed off toilet intake, deck fitting by anchor. Sweet!

Pump. Out of the way, tolerable access.
Deck fitting. I was going to go with a flush-mount system, but in the end decided to stick with simplicity at the severe cost of having to twist a hose end for a couple seconds every now and then. I'll live.


Raymarine 2000+ in hand - waiting on a bracket...


After much arm-waving and boat-stalking and soliciting opinions of how exactly to put a usable amount of solar on a pointy double-ender, I found Custom Marine Products' solar mount. It's a really great idea, but 1) it's $800, and 2) I couldn't figure out where to put it on my boat. So, I ordered about $200 worth of junk from onlinemetals and McMaster-Carr and got out my trusty sawzall.

2 100-watt panels mounted on poles above the pushpit. These twist and swivel - here one is "up" (in back) and one "down" to catch the morning sun. (Mid-March 38*N)
125W panel on the dodger
Morningstar 45-amp MPPT charge controller. Plenty of capacity to grow.
9-ish AM. Mostly-full batteries. Backstay shadow on one 100W panel, boom shadow across dodger panel, dew on all the panels, kinda-sorta pointed sun-wise. 11.5amps. Whoa!


The boat came with a very nice teak table plonked down right in the middle of everywhere and taking up way too much room.

We finally just unbolted the thing shoved it under a bed. We've tried various folding and rolling and collapsing tables, but all of them found a way to piss us off in one way or another. Dogs and babies and coffee habits and boats and shitty tables don't go so well together - who knew?!?

So, after a year or so of staring and drooling, a masterpiece emerges. It's perfect. It's wonderful. Sadly, it's also a mockup of a real table, made from $14 of Home Depot ply"wood," (can wood be that shity??) mostly cut out with my trusty sawzall. The heavy-wall stainless and teak slidy-hinge-thingee is real enough, so I just need to find wood, skills, and/or tools, replicate the table, and screw it to the hinge-thingee. If anyone knows someone in the SF Bay area who'd like to make me a real table...

The hinge is 2 pieces of 1.5" teak - crappy plantation stuff, but at least it was expensive - and 36" of heavy-wall 316 stainless tubing. The table is held on by 4-inch screws.

One bulkhead table, folded up out of the way
Folded down, folded up, slid in - it's almost entirely over the starboard setee and out of the way.
Open but not slid out, the boat is still mostly usable, although the head door won't open in this configuration.
Open and out. It's a couple inches narrower than the original table, and comfortably seats 4.
"Normal" position - easy access to head and V-berth, plenty of room for a laptop and legs. Also, I wanted to show that we really do own cushions. See the scars from the old table on the sole.

I think this is going to work well.

Also, if someone wants to buy a pedestal-mount table made out of 5/4 old-growth teak, make me an offer.

Electrical: Part - uhh, lots

Starting from the "starting battery" has always been dicey at best. So I finally sucked up and replaced the battery cables that weren't replaced during the initial electrical upgrade and - viola! I have a spare electrical system that - you know - will start the boat! I also have all new, all oversized battery cables now. No idea why I didn't just do that in the first place...